![]() If your needs are a little more complicated and can't be helped by rough cutting, then you'll need to build a temporary table to drop the job site saw into. If the rough cut idea works for you, then you only need to get something (outfeed stand, box, milk crate) at the right height a few feet away to help with the outfeed. (This obviously isn't going to work if you need a 30" finished size and your saw only cuts 24".) Refresh yourself on how material behaves when some fraction of real horsepower decides it wants to transfer some rotational force in another unexpected direction.ĭepending on dimensions, and whether you need more than 2 pieces out of a sheet, you might rough cut the sheet goods into smaller chunks with a circular saw, then put them through the tablesaw. Assume it will bind and kick-back, and be prepared.Many shops are built with portable tables that are at the same height (or adjustable height) so they can be used for this exact purpose. I've used store-bought and home-made straight-edge guides in the past, and they all worked well enough for rough cuts. It is, of course, a time-honoured tradition to make your own guide out of clamps and some factory cut lumber, as well. Others are the fancier ones you attach to the shoe of the saw. Some guides are just straight-edges you can clamp to the piece. ![]() If you do any amount of work with sheet goods, I'd always recommend investing in some kind of guide. Using a medium sized table saw for breaking down large sheet goods is a good way to find out how quickly a saw can separate meat from the unwary operator. Assuming you have a powered hand saw of some kind with a decent shoe, I'd recommend you give this a try. For sheet goods, I prefer to bring the tool to the material instead of the other way around.
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